#blahvsfood: With its new menu, Noon has finally fulfilled its potential

For a long time what I spoke about was the originality and importance of Noon, its potential and what I believed it could be. I said it was a restaurant that deserved to be supported on its journey to what it could become.


But implicit in that praise is the acknowledgment that Noon wasn’t yet the finished product. It needed to work on certain things. Specifically.. flavour forward rather than concept forward, consistency, balancing philosophy and technique with consumer expectations, plotting the flavour/texture/carb arc and journey in a tasting menu. 


Sahyadri blackjack rice

The last menu at Noon was almost there. It felt tantalisingly close.

But with this new menu, it’s done. I no longer need to describe Noon as one of merely important. 


Bhavnagri chilli with stuffed mackerel 

It’s straight out one of the three best restaurants in the country. It continues to be stunningly original and creative. But it is able to translate that into dish after dish that are just super tasty and that come together over twelve courses to create a tasting menu that is one of the three best in the country. Even if you don’t give a shit about sustainability or farming communities or traditional techniques like fermentation, you’ll still love the heat of a Bhavnagari chilli stuffed with mackerel and served with green garlic and tamarind Mahua chutneys. Or the joy of a bhakarwari ice cream sandwich filled with sweet miso kulfi. 


Bhakadwadi with sweet miso ice cream


This is a restaurant that is taking Indian food forward in ways that are exciting and important and flavourful in a way that is completely aligned with what the global world of food is seeking. 


Fermented persimmon sorbet

This is the one unmissable meal in Mumbai.

People who visit it from New York and London and Singapore say it.

It’s taken time for Indians to wake up to it but they are finally starting to see it. 

And I couldn’t be happier. 

Because this new menu at Noon is easily their best yet.



I ate:


  • black buckwheat tartlet / beets / turnip / black garlic / goat cheese

  • Singhara gol Gappa / crab / fermented dragon fruit, amsul / pisyoon loon

  • Kurdayi / corn miso / peanut podi 
  • Bhavnagri chilli / mackerel / green garlic chutney / tamarind Mahua chutney 

  • Khurra / nolen Gur garum tomatoes / goat butter / Zavasachi chutney 

  • Lamb / apricot, Skotse and Priyanku miso / brussel sprout tips, chunda

  • Trout / pumpkin kasundi / Tamyung achar, goat milk Thangthur, Zatsod / Marigold oil / Khambir 

  • Sheekh Tujji / Dooni chetin / Punda chetin / Gand chetin / all things mountain hot sauce / Lavasa 

  • King trumpet mushrooms / Sahyadri black Jack rice, purple yam / carrot tops chutney / turnip gunpowder misozukhe
  • Bhakarwadi / sweet miso chutney 

  • Fermented Mahua / patoli / vanilla ghee

  • Petit four 




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