#blahvsfood: I was right last year….Amar Khamar in Kolkata is probably the most important restaurant in India today.
I had said last year that Amar Khamar is one of the most important restaurants in India today. With the passage of time, I was wondering if that was the hyperbole of first impressions or an opinion I held on to. After visiting them again last month, that feeling is only reinforced. Bhaja with kashundi In some ways it does to Bengali cuisine what Divya Prabhakar and Bengalooru Oota Company did for Karnataka (and specifically Gowda) food, taking it from people’s homes and bringing it to the world and expanding our understanding of a cuisine. But in other ways, it actually represents a leap forward because it goes beyond cuisine and sheds light on an entire food ecosystem, and that journey it aims to preserve, revive or sustain an entire way of life. The extraordinary khichudi experience Whether it’s reviving ancient rice varietals that were going extinct or supporting small farmers and producers that are the (often exploited) bedrock of the food economy, I don’t know an...
