#blahvsfood: My review of Pavyllon by Yannick Alleno

Yannick Alleno has 3 Michelin star restaurant called Alleno Paris which is an institution in the city. When it comes to the rest of the world though, his hottest restaurant is his 1 star gastronomic counter Pavyllon, inspired by a French bistro, which he uses to feed guests in an environment that is more casual and intimate, like eating at a kitchen with the chefs. 

When you eat at Pavyllon, it’s easy to see why it’s so loved. There is a bronze head of a mythical wind god at the service counter to symbolise the energy of Pavyllon and it captures the buzz and vibe of the space perfectly. The whole restaurant is organised around an open kitchen with running instructions and shouts of “Chef” straight out of an episode of The Bear. Around this kitchen is the pass and a service counter where I sat, and then tables along big glass windows and out in the garden. It’s a stunning, high energy space, very different from the formality of a 3 star Michelin restaurant.

Buckwheat crisp with caviar 

That energy is also reflected in the food, which is a contemporary, global take on French cuisine, with a heightened focus on umami and freshness. Of course this being France, that there is no skimping on luxury, starting with the first course, a buckwheat crisp stuffed with fresh caviar and complimented by a fresh, citrusy lemon foam cream. 

Slightly warm potatoes with lovage mayonnaise, kombucha broth, seaweed and cucumber 

It was the next course though that made me realise this meal would be special. I love Franco-Japanese cuisine and have eaten at many of the great restaurants that cook this cuisine.  The slightly warm take on lyonnaise potatoes that I had here was as good as any Franco-Japanese dish anywhere in the world, with a creamy lovage mayonnaise contrasted against the acidity and umami of a Kombucha broth, seaweed and cucumber. 

Steak with a veil of Comte cheese 

The steak was also stunning. The meat itself was world class, coming from the legendary butcher Jean Marie Boedec and cooked flawlessly. But what made it memorable was the veil of Comte cheese that it came with, accentuating the butteriness, adding a touch of umami and a hint of sourness, and creating layers of flavour that went far beyond a regular fillet of beef. 

Wild strawberries, pomegranate veil, creamy orange blossom, sumac 

There were two deserts in my tasting menu, both excellent. The wild strawberries under a pomegranate veil with creamy orange blossom and sumac was the perfect dessert for a hot summer day, like having an elevated strawberries and cream, and reminiscent of the legendary dessert at the Ledbury that I miss and mourn greatly. The spiced apple crisp with Armagnac foam was light and airy but boozy, the perfect decadent dessert to end a meal that was stunning from beginning to end.

People keep dissing French food as being outdated cuisine. But it takes one meal at a great French restaurant to be reminded that there is a reason why no cuisine in the world is as influential. The intensity of flavour in every bite is magical, an experience best savoured with your eyes closed so you can taste every single element. 

I ate:

• 
  
  Crunchy buckwheat tuile stuffed with caviar and lemon foam cream
• Slightly warm potatoes glazed with lovage mayonnaise. Kombucha broth, seaweed and cucumber 
• 
  
  Ravioles potageres, broth of spring vegetable extractions, aromatic oils 
• 
  
  Line sea bass aiguillette under a veil of seaweed damassee. Celeriac mousseline and parsley foam.
• 
  
  Beef fillet from the butcher Jean Marie Boedec. Artichoke, veil of Comte cheese.
• 
  
  Wild strawberries under a pomegranate veil. Creamy orange blossom, sumac.
• 
  
  Made in Normande, spiced apple crisp, Armagnac foam