Toddy tapping on Vembanad Lake

On my recent visit to Nakshathra Mana I went on a boat ride on Vembanad lake and was lucky enough to be meet some people actually tapping toddy and seeing how they work. 

Toddy is made from the fermented sap of coconut trees. The first liquid that comes from the coconut is a tea coloured liquid called Neera that is collected in pots that are placed in the branches of a tree. When that is fermented, that changes colour and becomes becomes the milky drink we know as toddy. It is sweeter than distilled alcohol with about 16% sugar and because it is fermented naturally, it needs to be drunk within a day or two and can’t really be stored and bottled like a spirit. (Side note: As the great Hansel Vaz told me, coconut feni is made by double distilling toddy so that the sugar gradually reduces and turns into alcohol).

The skill of the tappers to climb the coconut tree using nothing more than rope is a sight to behold, both jaw dropping and terrifying at the same time. And while most people are reluctant to try toddy, I actually really like the slightly sweet, slightly funky, slightly acidic taste especially when sipped alongside some fried mussels or Karimeen or beef. So the next time you’re in Kerala, don’t be scared and don’t see it as some strange local curiosity but make your way to a toddy shop and have one of the more unique and memorable food and drink experiences in the country.