#blahvsfood goes to Together at 12th

3 of the 4 Young Founders At Together at 12th (from left Tanisha Phanbuh, Nitin Tiwari,  Chef Vanshika Bhatia)

I wasn’t planning to go to Together at 12th. First it sounded like yet another “modern Indian” restaurant. Second, it hadn’t read much about it from the major food writers and critics. However, I am glad I ended up going because I think they have really created a wonderful restaurant.

They have a wonderful bar programme run by Nitin Tiwari who helped develop the bar programmes at places like Masque and Toast and Tonic. It seems a bit of a stretch to drink a cocktail with sarson ka saag or Greek yoghurt, but both drinks were phenomenal. The unusual ingredients were expressed with subtlety and didn’t overwhelm the drink while the balance of spirit, sweetness and flavour was completely spot on.

I’ve written about this inspired chicken in bamboo before 

The food was certainly not Modern Indian but just creative riffs on Indian food with a western approach. There was no pretentiousness or self consciousness. Just a talented chef expressing her creativity with a focus on local produce, local product and local inspiration. I keep looking for (and struggling to find) clean cooking in India, clean confident flavours without the need to artificially boost the flavour profile or distract the diner with dubious presentation and gimmicks. The bekhti was wonderfully cured and almost meaty, the chicken in bamboo shoot was outstanding as I have written before, the protein course showed off our lentils in a way that let them shine like I’ve rarely seen before, the chorizo in the seafood and smoked pork risotto had a wonderful tartness and the barley ice cream that came with the apple pie was inspired. 

Cured bekti with sabudana and curry leaves 

A protein course that shows the brilliance of India’s pulses and legumes

Seafood and smoked pork risotto with chorizo 

Warm apple pie with a delightful barley ice cream that I had a second portion of  

Chef Vanshika isn’t the finished product yet. The amuse Bouche for example needs work and she’s clearly still growing as a chef. But I can’t remember the last time I met a 26 year old chef with her talent, creativity, technique and confidence. I would go so far to say that this is the most impressed I have been with a young chef since Hussain. 

I also loved the warmth and kindness and love in the restaurant. Created by a group of friends, they have all of the passion and naïveté of youth that allows them to have the courage to dream and to dare. From the sense of team and community, to acknowledging the contribution of everyone from servers to vendors, as well as the people who inspire them on their wall, this is a place with a lot of heart and soul. It’s a refreshing antidote to the politics and negativity I often encounter in the food world, including people who feel the need to describe a place as “bakwaas” and deter critics and writers from even visiting and checking out a place (incidents from the last few days). I wish people were kinder and more open minded, and I was really happy to eat a place that epitomised those values while also serving great food and great drinks. This is a restaurant that deserves all the love, support and encouragement it can get. 

Buckwheat, beetroot and berry

Brussel sprouts, fermented tomato and baby potato 

I ate: 

- Amuse bouche : maize,moringa & reduced kombucha

- Brussel Sprouts, fermented tomato, baby potato

- Buckwheat, beetroot, berry

- Kolkata Betki cured, sabudana, curry leaf

- Bamboo, Chicken, chilli

- Protein: melange of pulses

- Seafood, smoked pork risotto

- Warm apple pie with barley ice cream

- Petit four